Stappato valt in de prijzen

November 3rd, 2010

In de laatste editie van Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) heeft Antonio Galloni een special gewijd aan de nieuwe lichting Toscane en daarbij kwamen onze domeinen er bijzonder goed uit. 17 wijnen kregen 90 punten of meer waarvan 9 wijnen zelfs 94 tot 97 op 100.

Hieronder een overzichtje.

Boscarelli

• Rosso de Ferrari 2008 (89/100)
• Nobile di Montepulciano 2007 (91/100)
• Nobile Riserva di Montepulciano 2005 (92/100)
• Nocio dei Boscarelli Nobile 2006 (94/100)

The 2006 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Nocio dei Boscarelli is vibrant, wonderfully alive and bursting with fruit. Dark cherries, flowers, minerals, spices and French oak are just some of the nuances that emerge in the glass. The finish is utterly impeccable in its freshness and crystalline purity. Today the 2006 Nocio dei Boscarelli is very young, but all of the elements are in place for this to develop into a splendid wine. In a word: superb. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. (source: erobertparker.com)

Castello di Monsanto

• Il Poggio Riserva Chianti Classico 2006 (94+/100)
• Nemo Toscana 2006 (95/100)

The 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio is a powerhouse. Firm sturdy tannins enshroud a core of fruit that struggles to emerge in the glass. Behind the wine’s imposing structure lie hints of red cherries, menthol, licorice and leather. Today the 2006 Il Poggio comes across as painfully young, but the balance, length and impeccable finish suggest all that is required is patience. Over the years and decades Il Poggio has built a stellar track record of excellence. Il Poggio is 90% Sangiovese, 7% Canaiolo and 3% Colorino. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036.

The 2006 Nemo Vigneto Il Mulino (Cabernet Sauvignon) is a more overt, fruit-driven wine than Il Poggio in this vintage. Sweet scents of French oak meld into blackberries, blueberries, licorice and grilled herbs. The fruit remains extremely primary, while the oak is a touch prominent, both of which suggest further cellaring is needed for all of the elements to come together. A rich, textured, creamy finish provides the final exclamation point to this superb, pedigreed Nemo. This distinctly Tuscan Cabernet seems to get better and better with each passing vintage. The 2006 is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.

Castello di Monsanto is one of the historic names in Chianti Classico. The flagship Chianti Classico Riserva Il Poggio and Nemo (Cabernet Sauvignon) are both exceptional in 2006 and promise to deliver much pleasure over many, many years. (source: erobertparker.com)

Poliziano - Lohsa

• Nobile di Montepulciano 2007 (90/100)
• Mandrone di Lohsa 2007 (91/100)
• Asinone Nobile di Montepulciano 2007 (94/100)

The estate’s flagship 2007 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Asinone is a single-vineyard offering from 45 year-old vines that spent months in French oak. Explosive, ripe and totally seductive, the Asinone presents a heady array of dark fruit, new leather, and licorice, along with menthol, spices and a host of other balsamic nuances that come to life in the glass. The French oak is already beautifully integrated, but the fruit is still quite vibrant, suggesting the wine needs at least another few years in bottle to develop its full range of aromas and flavors. Today, I can only marvel at the wine’s exceptional balance and drop-dead gorgeous personality. The Asinone is a winner from Poliziano. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027.

These are among the finest wines I can remember tasting from Poliziano, one of Montepulciano-s reference-point producers. (source: erobertparker.com)

Rocca di Montegrossi

• Chianti Classico 2008 (92/100)
• San Marcellino Chianti Classico 2007 (92/100)
• Geremia Toscana 2006 (95+/100)
• Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2002 (94/100)

The 2006 Geremia is a marvelous, explosive wine that saturates the palate with layers of blackberries, blueberries, minerals, tar, smoke and herbs. The energy and sheer power of the fruit are remarkable, as is the wine’s nuance and polish. All of the elements flow together beautifully in the intense Geremia. The wine’s finesse and sense of balance are unmistakable. This is another gem from Rocca di Montegrossi. Geremia is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon that spent 27 months in medium toast Allier oak barrels, 70% new for the Merlot and 100% new for the Cabernet. The oak treatment seems better suited to international grapes than it does to the Sangiovese in the San Marcellino. Varietal character takes a back seat in this distinctly Tuscan thoroughbred that readers will not want to miss. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.

The 2002 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico is cooler and more reserved than usual. Toffee, caramel, dried figs, cinnamon, cloves and tobacco are some of the layers that come to life in this medium-bodied yet intense Vin Santo. As always the Vin Santo from Rocca di Montegrossi shows impeccable class in its unique personality, even if in this vintage it is a touch subdued. The rich, creamy finish beautifully reconciles a traditional Vin Santo aromatic and flavor profile with a rich, expansive personality, while never going over the top. An unusual blend of 95% Malvasia and 5% Canaiolo, the Vin Santo was made from fruit that was air-dried for a full five months prior to being fermented and aged in the traditional oak, mulberry and cherry caratelli. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2022.

My visit last year with proprietor Marco Ricasoli was illuminating, as we tasted through a number of older wines. The progress this young estate has made under Ricasoli’s leadership is nothing short of remarkable. I would be remiss if I didn’t say a word about the most surprising wine Ricasoli poured. It wasn’t one of his higher-end selections, but rather the straight 2002 Chianti Classico that impressed the most. Readers, of course, know 2002 was one of the worst years on record in northern Italy, yet this was a beautiful, mid-weight wine with no hard edges or signs of greenness, and the freshness to drink well for a number of years to come. It was truly a mind-opening wine. (source: erobertparker.com)

San Giusto a Rentennano

• Chianti Classico Riserva Il Baroncole 2007 (91/100)
• Percarlo Sangiovese Toscana 2006 (97/100)
• La Ricolma Merlot Toscana 2007 (96/100)
• Vin San Giusto Vdt 2002 (94/100)

The estate’s flagship 2006 Percarlo (Sangiovese) is big, dark and powerful. Still very much tightly wound, the wine gradually opens up, revealing layers of ripe dark fruit, minerals, menthol and spices, all of which are supported by firm, yet elegant tannins. There is breathtaking clarity, finesse and freshness in the glass. The oak is beautifully integrated, though, and there is little doubt this will turn into a magical bottle somewhere down the line. It looks like the estate has made a wise choice in giving Percarlo an extra year in bottle prior to release as the 2006 is imposing and will require quite a bit of time before it enters its prime window of drinkability. While that time does not appear to be on the horizon, readers who can find the 2006 Percarlo will not want to hesitate, as it is magical. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2031.

The 2007 La Ricolma (Merlot) flows across the palate with sensual grace as layers of perfumed red fruit meld seamlessly into silky, refined tannins. Medium in body, the wine possesses remarkable class and elegance. A final burst of sweet red berries, flowers and spices informs the breathtaking, exceptionally fine finish. Though delicious today for its soft, approachable personality, the fruit remains incredibly primary, with very little development in the aromas and flavors. A few more years in bottle should take care of things. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027

The 2002 Vin San Giusto is made from 90% Malvasia and 10% Trebbiano that is air dried for over four months prior to being vinified and aged in a combination of small oak barrels. The wine spends an incredible six years in oak, during which as much as 40% of the water evaporates, leaving a plush, soft dessert wine of incomparable elegance. Sweet spices, honey, plums, roasted coffee beans, maple syrup and dried flowers are just some of the nuances that flow from this rich, sumptuous wine. The Vin San Giusto comes in at an incredible 390 grams of residual sugar, far in excess of what is allowed for Vin Santo, hence its labeling as a proprietary sweet wine. As delicious as this is now, it also likely to be nearly immortal. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.

San Giusto is one of the pearls of Italy. This small, family-run property is a great source for hand-made, artisan wines that reflect the best of the Tuscan vigneron spirit. Simply put, I was blown away by most of these new releases. (source: erobertparker.com)

Case Basse di Gianfranco Soldera

• Brunello Riserva di Montalcino 2003 (93/100)

Soldera’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is surprisingly supple and open at this stage. Texturally silky and refined, the 2003 Riserva shows wonderful balance, tons of class and a highly appealing personality. The 2003 Riserva is already somewhat forward in its aromas and flavors, though, which suggests it isn’t built for the long haul. I vastly prefer the 2002 Riserva here, as it shows more brilliant color, correspondingly fresher flavors and the potential for longevity I consider essential for a wine of this pedigree and price. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018.

My tasting with Giafranco Soldera last summer was fascinating, as we went through each and every wine in the cellar cask by cask. At their best, these are some of the most profound wines being made anywhere on the planet. (source: erobertparker.com)

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