Posts filed under 'appellations'
La Serra always yields wines with firm, slightly austere tannins. That quality never goes away over time. That is why La Serra is a ‘premier cru’ in my book. Another vineyard I would put in this category is Bric del Fiasc. Here you typically find more powerful wines. The tannins are always firm and a touch coarse. Just to be clear, a wine/vineyard can have big tannins and also be very elegant. Giacosa’s Le Rocche del Falletto comes to mind.
When I think of Piedmont’s very finest sites….Monprivato, Rocche, Rocche dell’Annunziata, Vigna Rionda, Cerequio, Ginestra, Brunate, Rocche dell Falletto, Cascina Francia, Cannubi, to name a few…these sites all tend to produce wines that are very elegant, especially if given the time to age. (source: erobertparker.com)
lees meer…
Continue Reading August 12th, 2011
Poggio di Sotto van eigenaar Piero Palmucci wordt vaak in één adem genoemd met Soldera. Het feit dat ze beiden een beroep doen op de gerenommeerde wijnconsulent Giulio Gambelli, zal hier waarschijnlijk niet vreemd aan zijn.
Desalniettemin hebben ze een eigen visie en stijl ontwikkeld, maar één ding is voor alle twee primordiaal “er mag en zal niet worden geraakt aan de typiciteit van de Sangiovese Grosso”. Zowel Poggio di Sotto als Soldera streven naar een zo puur mogelijke expressie van deze wonderlijke druif. Elk zichzelf respecterende wijn- en Sangiovese-liefhebber wil dan ook beide producenten vertegenwoordigd zien in zijn of haar wijnkelder.
Alle wijnen bij Poggio di Sotto zijn volledig organisch, zonder gebruik van pesticiden en chemicaliën. Er worden drie wijnen gemaakt allen van 100% Sangiovese: een fenomenale Rosso, een sublieme Brunello en uitmuntende Brunello Riserva.
Lees meer …
Continue Reading June 13th, 2011
Wijnliefhebbers met een voorliefde voor Brunello zullen ongetwijfeld vergelijkbare lijsten bijhouden van hun favoriete producenten rekening houdend met hun voorkeur qua stijl en het te besteden budget. De top drie echter komt meestal overeen: Soldera staat doorgaans op nummer één, en de posities twee en drie worden worden verdeeld onder Poggio di Sotto en Salvioni; in welke volgorde dan ook.
Ongeacht de rang van Salvioni geniet het domein de onbetwiste eerste plaats in het genre van de cult-Brunello. De typische huisstijl doet bijna denken aan Barolo en Barbaresco …
Lees meer.
Continue Reading June 13th, 2011
Being a huge Castello di Monsanto-lover, I wanted my first post to be one about a recent vertical tasting I had with some fellow wine friends.
All wines were decanted at least four hours before tasting.
First flight: Chianti Classico 2004 vs. 2007
The basic Chianti already shows the house style of Monsanto. Pure, elegant, delicate and full of fruit; this is a great expression of the terroir. It is good to see this little Chianti also illustrates fine maturation after a year or three. The tasting group was in doubt. Half of them preferred the fruitiness of the 2007; the other half were pleased by the 3 extra years of rest in the cellar.
Second flight: Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 vs. 2006
Immediately, everybody agreed on the fact these Riserva-wines offer more complexity and structure compared to the normal Chianti Classico. Especially, the 2004-vintage already gave us an idea what we could expect from the next flights. Unanimously, we believed the Riserva needs a few years to settle in the bottle. At this moment, everyone was in favor of the 2004-vintage. Still on its fruit, but already the first signs of fine maturation with some hints of plums, earthiness and some spices.
Third flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 2003 vs. 2004
Finally, we reach the level everybody was waiting for, without prejudicing the other Chianti. 2004 really is a fine vintage, already offering a great bouquet in its youth. Concentrated and complex, yet elegant with fine tannins. As for the 2003, we all were amazed by its quality. 2003 was a warm vintage, overall offering wines with (too) ripe fruit and sweetness. Not the vintage to be kept for decades in the cellar. However, the Il Poggio 2003 we tasted was without a doubt one of the best Tuscan wines we tasted in this vintage. Really an enjoyable glass of wine at this moment. Our compliments!
Fourth flight: Il Poggio Riserva CC 2001 vs. Fabrizio Bianchi 2001
What a great vintage! Everybody was of the same opinion: this two wines can live for decades. It was nice to compare the two terroirs. The pure Sangiovese from the Scanni-vineyard offers delicate fruit as cherries, red berries and also some hints of cedar wood well-integrated. Maybe a Fabrizio Bianchi Sangiovese-vertical tasting would be a nice sequel :o)
Il Poggio 2001 was believed to be one of the greatest from the last decade and one that can become as great as a 1977. Superb concentration, fine acidity and good tannins.
Fifth flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1997 vs. 1999
In a whole, we can say the majority was preferring the 1997-vintage at this moment. Very classic Chianti, with firm tannins but well-structured. Also 1997 is considered a warm vintage, but everybody was astonished with its capacity to elder. We all tasted several top-Tuscan wines from 1997 that already passed their best drinking moment, but we have to say a wine like Il Poggio 1997 still has the ability to age. 1999 was considered to be difficult to taste at this moment. We all had a toasty nose with rich and ripe fruit, but we felt the wine was struggling and probably in a period were its was evolving to a different stage. Everybody agreed we had to re-taste this wine in two to three years.
Sixth flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1982 vs. 1983
With small disappointment since 1982 is my year of birth, I have to say in this flight we considered 1983 to be more complete. Especially, the volume of fruit in the nose was amazing for a wine of more than a quarter century. Both of them were judged to be great vintages with some fine leather hints, balanced wood and amazing length. 1983, though, still has some years to grow in complexity; where 1982 probably is at its top.
Seventh flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1977 vs. 1979
Two words: oh wow!
In the beginning, the 1979 was offering great concentration and complexity, where 1977 was a bit closed. Immediately, the majority of the group gave their preference to this vintage. However, after 15 minutes of being in the glass, the 1977 opened up. Mature scents of prunes and plums, leather and even tea were present. Also the concentration and the aftertaste were pretty remarkable. Everyone even agreed on the fact that this wine has some years to go.
Eighth flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1968
Marvelous orange color. Rich fruit, with again the pruney and plummy hints. Very soft tannins and still a fine acidity. More evolved than a 1977 or 1979 but still an enjoyable glass of wine. This 1968 really charmed us but overall 1977 has blown us away and was considered the best of the older vintages. As for the young vintages, our favorite was the 2001.
Ninth flight: Nemo Toscana 2004
We gave this Nemo 2004 at the end of the tasting; blind-folded. This wine already was in carafe for more than 10 hours. The reason for this was that I tasted the Nemo some weeks before the vertical tasting, also blind, and I was amazed by its greatness. I judged it to be a superb and top-Bordeaux blend, amongst the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon-wines in the world from a top-vintage. It came out to be Nemo 2004! The scents of graphite in the nose and the rich, ripe fruit from the Cabernet Sauvignon make this Nemo one of the best pirates in a blind tasting of topcru Bordeaux-wines.
To end this tasting notes, I would advice everyone to get his hands on some bottles of the recently released 2006-vintage of Il Poggio CCR. This is a classic in the making.
Cheers!
Jeroen Vandensande
April 15th, 2011
In November 2010, Giuseppe Mascarello flew to Belgium for a special tasting held in our enoteca on Monday the 22nd of November with some of the most respected sommeliers of Belgium and the Netherlands. We have to say we tasted quite an impressive line-up of wines.
1. Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco 2008
Interesting traditional-style Dolcetto. I call it a “dolcetto barolato”. This wine is approached like a barolo and you clearly have the mineral scents, which for me is the trademark house style of Giuseppe Mascarello. Deep ruby-red color; fruity flavors in this stage; nice dry and elegant taste. Dolcetto full of personality with an expected ageing potential of 5 years more. Only 3000 bottles produced a year. 89p
2. Barbera d’Alba Scudetto 2005 vs. 2006
The Scudetto is harvested from a 70 year-old vineyard and aged for 18 months in French oak. The 2006-vintage is just recently released. Very vinous wine, full of character, with a deep taste, well-balanced wood and fine acidity. 2005 is already more approachable and at this moment more enjoyable as well, but the 2006 is a keeper. It should be interesting to see the 2006 evolving over the coming 10 years. 2005 - 90p | 2006 -91p
3. Barbera d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno 2006 vs. Barbera d’Alba Codana 2006
These two Barbera-wines, Mascarello only produces in small quantities. The Codana is a special cru made from grapes coming from the tale of the Monprivato-vineyard (coda means tale in English). Some of the vines are more than 100 years old and in a good vintage, a 1000 botlles are produced. The wine is impressive with typical “terroir” aromas, you retrieve as well in the Barolo Monprivato itself. At this moment slightly tannic but it’s a wine that will older amazingly well over the coming 15 years. I am a lesser fan of the Santo Stefano di Perno. Still an impressive Barbera though, but less structured than the two other crus. More fruity aromas, less character. S. Stefano - 88p | Codana - 93p
4. Langhe Freisa Toetto 2004 vs. Langhe Status 2001
Quite an intriguing flight. Freisa was in the past the ancestor of Nebbiolo, but since the variety is known for an expressive bunch of tannins, it is rarely produced these days. Nonetheless, this is a wine I would love to get together with red meat, spicy food and even ethnic cuisine. From 2004 onwards, Giuseppe decided to cut in days of maceration to increase the drinkability of young Freisa. Langhe Status on its turn is an experiment made by Giuseppe from Nebbiolo, Barbera and Freisa grapes. Surprising bouquet but I prefer the single grape wines. Freisa - 88p | Status - 87p
5. Langhe Nebbiolo 2007 vs. 2008
I absolute adore this wine. Every year only 3000 bottles are made and the grapes are partly declassified Monprivato grapes. Both vintages are stunning. The aroma coming from the 2008 is simply addictive; you can’t get enough of it. Elegant, intense, mineral, somewhat volatile. Great expression of Nebbiolo. The 2007 on its turn is Barolo-worthy. More structured, deeper … I can imagine most producers would be proud if they were able to make a Barolo-wine like this and Mascarello just calls it Langhe :oD Ageing potential for a possible 10 years. 2007 - 92p | 2008 - 91p
6. Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno 2005 vs. Barolo Monprivato 2005
Again, we were a bit disappointed in the Santo Stefano di Perno but the greatness of the Monprivato 2005 we had, might be an unlucky factor to score this wine. As stated by Antonio Galloni in previous posts, Monprivato 2005 is simple gorgeous and probably one of the best wines I have tasted from 2005. No Ca’ d’Morissio Riserva was produced in that year and the selection went into the regular Monprivato. In addition the production was cut down to less than half of the normal Monprivato-production, leading to a Monprivato worthy standing in between the ‘04 and the ‘06 vintages. Complex nose with flowery and spicy scents. I expect it to get better over the years, but it’s already showing let’s say 80% of its potential. S.Stefano - 90p | Monprivato 2004 - 94p
7. Barolo Villero 2004 vs. Barolo Monprivato 2004
It’s never a gift being opposed to a Monprivato, but this Villero is more withstanding to it than the previous Santo Stefano. In the better vintages, it is a wine I like to follow since it’s a superb expression of the Villero-subzone and in a blind tasting next to a Brovia, it offers always interesting material for lively discussions. However, I expect the 2006 Villero to be even better. Barolo Monprivato 2004 is a role model. Great masculin Barolo with an almost mythical minerality, with a slight hint of petrol in the nose - something I only retrieve as well in Barolo Cascina Francia from G. Conterno. Noble expression of Nebbiolo showing 40% of its potential and a wine with some decades ahead of him. Villero - 92p | Monprivato 2004 - 97p
8. Barolo Monprivato 2006 in anteprima
I consider Monprivato 2006 already a future monument for great Barolo. This wine was not yet released at the time of the tasting for reasons it is still too young, but after decanting it for 5 hours, the wine showed a slight touch of its grandeur. Very fruity, flowery sensations in the nose. Excellent body, long and full. I am thrillled to see this wine evolve over the coming 25 years and one should taste a bottle ever 6 months of it to be sure :o) I better talk to by bank for a Monprivato-loan ;o). 97+p
9. Barolo Monprivato 2001 vs. Barolo Ris. Ca’ d’Morissio 2001
I felt just honoured to be able to compare these two flagship wines. Monprivato 2001 is a classic in the making showing the greatness of the Monprivato vineyard after some years of cellar life, but what to say about the Riserva. This special selection of Nebbiolo (Michet Clone) from the Monprivato vineyard is only produced in the upperbest vintages. When the regular Monprivato is bottled both wines are tasted and if there isn’t a significant difference, the Riserva goes into the normal Monprivato production. When you ask me, Ca’ d’Morisso only finds its equal in Monfortino. Only top red Burgundy wines can offer the same expression. Roses, red fruit and spices with in the back a touch of licorice. Expected cellar life: time will tell. Monprivato 2001 - 96p | Riserva Ca’ d’Morissio 98p
10. Barolo Monprivato 1984
A special thanks to Mauro, Giuseppe’s father. Okay, we had to drive to Piemonte to convince him to offer a bottle from his private cellar for this event, but it was worth ever single drop of it. Keeping in mind that 1984 was not seen as a promising vintage, it is even more impressive to see its evolution. As Giuseppe had recommended, the bottle was open hours before and was gently decanted. After rinsing the bottle to remove the sediment, the wine was poured again in the bottle. The effect was we had a clean wine with an hugely expressive, multi-dimensional, ethereal nose and a long resonating taste. Fantastic bottle probably at its peak. 95+p
In short, a tasting etched in our memories for life!
January 13th, 2011
In de laatste editie van Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) heeft Antonio Galloni een special gewijd aan de nieuwe lichting Toscane en daarbij kwamen onze domeinen er bijzonder goed uit. 17 wijnen kregen 90 punten of meer waarvan 9 wijnen zelfs 94 tot 97.
Hieronder een overzichtje.
Lees meer en klik snel door …
Continue Reading November 3rd, 2010
Vandaag bereikte er ons goed nieuws helemaal vanuit Campania. Peppe en Manuela van het huis Terre del Principe deelden ons het volgende mee:
“Cari amici,
vi giriamo le recensioni di Wine Advocate sui nostri vini. La palma quest’anno va a Vigna Piancastelli 2007 con 93 punti, seguito da Ambruco 08 (92), Centomoggia 08 (91), Le Sèrole 09 (90), Castello delle Femmine 08 (90), Fontanavigna 09 89 punti.
Non male!!!!
Un abbraccio e buon lavoro
Manuela e Peppe ”
Nog maar eens een bewijs dat dit huis een uitstekend werk levert en jaar na jaar er in slaagt om het niveau van de wijnen steeds te verhogen!
Kijk snel naar het assortiment van Terre del Principe en lees meer over deze prachtige wijnen!
buon lavoro Peppe & Manuela!!!
July 5th, 2010
Emilia-Romagna doet niet meteen een belletje rinkelen bij de meeste wijnliefhebbers. Bij de hoofdstad Bologna denkt men eerder aan gastronomische lekkernijen. De vruchtbare gronden zijn hier meestal aan andere teelten besteed. Wie echter de wijnen van het huis Ferrucci geproefd heeft, vindt dit beeld zeker niet helemaal terecht. Er kan wel degelijk verrassende wijn gemaakt worden gemaakt!
Om Sangiovese goed te laten rijpen wordt er streng gesnoeid in de 15 hectaren grote wijngaarden. In de kelders gebeurt dan de ultieme selectie: alleen het beste fruit gaat naar de pers. De laatste jaren heeft het domein veel geïnvesteerd in onderzoek en experimenten met kloonselectie en verschillende aanplantwijzen om de kwaliteit van de druiventrossen te verhogen. Dit alles geeft een heel bijzondere Sangiovese di Romagna: wat wilde aroma’s, qua smaak geen te zware wijn, eerder delicaat, sympathiek, verleidelijk en toch met het karakteristieke Sangiovese-bittertje in de afdronk.
Azienda Agricola Ferrucci werd opgericht in 1932 en is echt een domein om in de gaten te houden. Zeker de nieuwe jaargang Auriga is een topproduct op gebied van prijs-kwaliteit. Niet-te-missen tijdens de zomermaanden!
June 15th, 2010
The 2002 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is simply awesome. A deep yet translucent red, the wine explodes from the glass with a muscular, structured core of fruit that totally saturates the palate. The depth and richness of the fruit is simply breathtaking for its detail, clarity and inner perfume. Today the tannins are rather imposing, so extended cellaring seems wise. Despite the reputation of the vintage, there is not a hint of greenness or unripe tannin here, just a firm, classic Brunello that will thrill those who appreciate traditionally made wines. In 2002 Gianfranco Soldera crafted one of exactly three Italian reds that are profound; the others are Giacomo Conterno-s Barolo Monfortino and Miani-s Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032 (96+/100)
Gianfranco Soldera continue to make some of the most compelling wines in Montalcino. A visit to this estate is an absolute must for anyone who seeks to understand the essence of one of the world-s greatest wines. I don’t say that lightly. A recent bottle of Soldera-s 1998 Riserva more than held it own when tasted alongside some of the greatest wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy, in fact it showed far more complexity and sheer character than many of those far more celebrated bottles. (source: erobertparker.com)
April 30th, 2010
Komt er nu echt geen eind aan die stroom imitatieproducten? Meestal vrij ordinaire ersatz die men, vaak met een suggestief label en dito trendy doopnaam, op de markt wil slijten. Terwijl er toch wereldwijd een overaanbod en overschot bestaat van wél eerlijke wijnen?
Nu is er weer een nieuw hoofdstuk(je) geschreven aan dit apen-apen-apen-na-verhaal, met dit keer toch wel een belangrijk Brits warenhuisketen in de beklaagdenbank.
De Britse markt, die sommigen nog altijd als de Zevende Hemel op wijngebied beschouwen, maar die objectief beschouwd wel puur op ‘kwantiteit’ en ‘discount’ gebaseerd is.
Waar is de ‘P’ gebleven?
De feiten? De Italiaanse overheidsinspecteur voor landbouwproducten en fraudebestrijding, heeft zopas een levering van 14.400 flessen mousserende rosé geblokkeerd, bestemd waren voor het keten Marks & Spencer in het Verenigd Koninkrijk. Naam van het product: Rosecco Vino Spumante Brut Rosé, het eigen label van Marks & Spencer.
Het is waarschijnlijk de eerste actie van de Italiaanse autoriteiten sedert de kersverse, strengere wetgeving rond de ‘Prosecco‘ ook binnen Europa werd erkend (lees o.a. Prosecco heeft zijn D.O.C.G. te pakken). Volgens de Italiaanse Minister van Landbouwbeleid “… zet het spelen met de naam en de kleur van de etiketten de wijnconsumenten op het verkeerde been.”
En hij maakt zich, terecht volgens mij, boos op het feit dat men op die manier Britse consumenten iets voorschotelt wat niet echt klopt met de origineregels uit Veneto. Qua uitmonstering gelijkt de naam én het label van deze ‘Rosecco’ immers teveel op die van authentieke ‘Prosecco‘. Bovendien stelt het Consorzio per la Tutela del Vino Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene, de belangenbehartigers van de Prosecco, dat het ook door de Italiaanse wijnwetgeving verboden is om Italiaanse producten of hun naam te imiteren.
En zeg nu eerlijk: Prosecco Rosé of Rosecco Rosé, it’s elementary, my Dear Watson…
Flauwe verdediging
Uiteraard weert Marks & Spencer zich als een duivel in een wijwatervat: “Toen de nieuwe wetgeving voor het eerst werd gepubliceerd, hebben M&S en onze leveranciers meteen in het Verenigd Koninkrijk én Italië legale bijstand gezocht”, dixit Andrew Bird, Category Manager voor Marks & Spencer, die dus deze Rosecco aan £6,99 in de rekken dropt. “En we kregen van overal het advies dat ons nieuw trademark helemaal geen inbreuk vormde, noch op de Europese wetgeving, noch op die van het Consorzio.”
Goed geprobeerd jongens, maar facts blijven facts: dit is na-aperij die zeker 8 op de 10 consumenten iets voorschotelt wat naar de Europese letter van de wet niet meer kan. Het wordt tijd dat dit soort woordkidnapping streng aangepakt wordt.
(bron: wijntijd)
February 25th, 2010
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