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Being a huge Castello di Monsanto-lover, I wanted my first post to be one about a recent vertical tasting I had with some fellow wine friends.
All wines were decanted at least four hours before tasting.
First flight: Chianti Classico 2004 vs. 2007
The basic Chianti already shows the house style of Monsanto. Pure, elegant, delicate and full of fruit; this is a great expression of the terroir. It is good to see this little Chianti also illustrates fine maturation after a year or three. The tasting group was in doubt. Half of them preferred the fruitiness of the 2007; the other half were pleased by the 3 extra years of rest in the cellar.
Second flight: Chianti Classico Riserva 2004 vs. 2006
Immediately, everybody agreed on the fact these Riserva-wines offer more complexity and structure compared to the normal Chianti Classico. Especially, the 2004-vintage already gave us an idea what we could expect from the next flights. Unanimously, we believed the Riserva needs a few years to settle in the bottle. At this moment, everyone was in favor of the 2004-vintage. Still on its fruit, but already the first signs of fine maturation with some hints of plums, earthiness and some spices.
Third flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 2003 vs. 2004
Finally, we reach the level everybody was waiting for, without prejudicing the other Chianti. 2004 really is a fine vintage, already offering a great bouquet in its youth. Concentrated and complex, yet elegant with fine tannins. As for the 2003, we all were amazed by its quality. 2003 was a warm vintage, overall offering wines with (too) ripe fruit and sweetness. Not the vintage to be kept for decades in the cellar. However, the Il Poggio 2003 we tasted was without a doubt one of the best Tuscan wines we tasted in this vintage. Really an enjoyable glass of wine at this moment. Our compliments!
Fourth flight: Il Poggio Riserva CC 2001 vs. Fabrizio Bianchi 2001
What a great vintage! Everybody was of the same opinion: this two wines can live for decades. It was nice to compare the two terroirs. The pure Sangiovese from the Scanni-vineyard offers delicate fruit as cherries, red berries and also some hints of cedar wood well-integrated. Maybe a Fabrizio Bianchi Sangiovese-vertical tasting would be a nice sequel :o)
Il Poggio 2001 was believed to be one of the greatest from the last decade and one that can become as great as a 1977. Superb concentration, fine acidity and good tannins.
Fifth flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1997 vs. 1999
In a whole, we can say the majority was preferring the 1997-vintage at this moment. Very classic Chianti, with firm tannins but well-structured. Also 1997 is considered a warm vintage, but everybody was astonished with its capacity to elder. We all tasted several top-Tuscan wines from 1997 that already passed their best drinking moment, but we have to say a wine like Il Poggio 1997 still has the ability to age. 1999 was considered to be difficult to taste at this moment. We all had a toasty nose with rich and ripe fruit, but we felt the wine was struggling and probably in a period were its was evolving to a different stage. Everybody agreed we had to re-taste this wine in two to three years.
Sixth flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1982 vs. 1983
With small disappointment since 1982 is my year of birth, I have to say in this flight we considered 1983 to be more complete. Especially, the volume of fruit in the nose was amazing for a wine of more than a quarter century. Both of them were judged to be great vintages with some fine leather hints, balanced wood and amazing length. 1983, though, still has some years to grow in complexity; where 1982 probably is at its top.
Seventh flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1977 vs. 1979
Two words: oh wow!
In the beginning, the 1979 was offering great concentration and complexity, where 1977 was a bit closed. Immediately, the majority of the group gave their preference to this vintage. However, after 15 minutes of being in the glass, the 1977 opened up. Mature scents of prunes and plums, leather and even tea were present. Also the concentration and the aftertaste were pretty remarkable. Everyone even agreed on the fact that this wine has some years to go.
Eighth flight: Il Poggio CC Riserva 1968
Marvelous orange color. Rich fruit, with again the pruney and plummy hints. Very soft tannins and still a fine acidity. More evolved than a 1977 or 1979 but still an enjoyable glass of wine. This 1968 really charmed us but overall 1977 has blown us away and was considered the best of the older vintages. As for the young vintages, our favorite was the 2001.
Ninth flight: Nemo Toscana 2004
We gave this Nemo 2004 at the end of the tasting; blind-folded. This wine already was in carafe for more than 10 hours. The reason for this was that I tasted the Nemo some weeks before the vertical tasting, also blind, and I was amazed by its greatness. I judged it to be a superb and top-Bordeaux blend, amongst the greatest Cabernet Sauvignon-wines in the world from a top-vintage. It came out to be Nemo 2004! The scents of graphite in the nose and the rich, ripe fruit from the Cabernet Sauvignon make this Nemo one of the best pirates in a blind tasting of topcru Bordeaux-wines.
To end this tasting notes, I would advice everyone to get his hands on some bottles of the recently released 2006-vintage of Il Poggio CCR. This is a classic in the making.
Cheers!
Jeroen Vandensande
April 15th, 2011
Naar jaarlijkse gewoonte reizen we de eerste donderdag van april met het team van Enoteca Stappato en A Wine Affair af naar Italië. Klassiek vindt in Verona rond deze tijd de wijnbeurs Vinitaly plaats. Dit is zonder twijfel dé belangrijkste, Italiaanse wijnbeurs van het jaar en ook onze meeste wijnproducenten zijn hierop aanwezig. Voor ons betekent dit een druk vijfdaags programma, waarbij we bij onze huizen de nieuwe jaartallen degusteren en waarbij we ook op zoek gaan naar onontdekte wijnpareltjes. Dit jaar ligt voor ons alvast de focus op strak-gevinifieerde, minerale witte wijnen. Hopelijk kunnen we jullie achteraf verrassen met enkele nieuwigheden.
Dit betekent evenwel dat Enoteca Stappato gesloten zal zijn van woensdag 6 april tot zaterdag 9 april 2011.
Vanaf woensdag 13 april bent u opnieuw welkom tijdens de normale openingsuren.
Vergeet verder onze themadegustaties in Enoteca Stappato niet. Elke zaterdag van mei zal er een selectie van een 12-tal wijnen te proeven staan.
Meer info volgt binnen twee weken.
Salute e saluti,
Jeroen – Jens – Filip – Renato – Stefaan
April 5th, 2011
Roccolo Grassi is one of Veneto’s most exciting young estates. Proprietor Marco Sartori makes elegant, perfumed wines that are easily enjoyed with minimum cellaring. Sartori favors a shorter period of drying for his Amarone fruit than is the custom at many of the region’s other estates. He is also among the producers who decided not to bottle his 2005 Amarone. The 2006 Amarone, tasted from barrel, is highly promising at this stage. Along with Stefano Campedelli of Marion, Marco Sartori is one of the most talented and inspired young producers in Valpolicella, with seemingly no ceiling as to where his passion and drive will ultimately take him. Simply put, I can’t recommend these wines highly enough.
Antonio Galloni
March 16th, 2011
Voorjaarsproeverij A Wine Affair
Op zaterdag 26 en zondag 27 februari 2011 van 13h tot 19h en op maandag 28 februari 2011 van 17h tot 21h organiseren wij onze proefdagen op locatie van A Wine Affair in de Driemasterstraat 74 te Gent.
Er zullen meer dan 50 referenties te proeven zijn, waaronder enkele topwijnen die binnenkort in primeur zullen verschijnen.
Een volledige proeflijst mag u half februari in uw mailbox verwachten. Bovendien zal Italiaan Sabatino om het Italiaans feest compleet te maken opnieuw à la minute verse pizza’s bakken.
Verder hebben volgende wijnboeren al zeker hun aanwezigheid bevestigd:
- Boscarelli (Vino Nobile | Toscane) : alle dagen.
- Sandro Fay (Valtellina | Lombardia) : zaterdag en zondag.
Inschrijven kan op tel. (09) 216 40 70 of via info@awineaffair.be. Gelieve het aantal personen en de dag te vermelden.
February 8th, 2011
In November 2010, Giuseppe Mascarello flew to Belgium for a special tasting held in our enoteca on Monday the 22nd of November with some of the most respected sommeliers of Belgium and the Netherlands. We have to say we tasted quite an impressive line-up of wines.
1. Dolcetto d’Alba Bricco 2008
Interesting traditional-style Dolcetto. I call it a “dolcetto barolato”. This wine is approached like a barolo and you clearly have the mineral scents, which for me is the trademark house style of Giuseppe Mascarello. Deep ruby-red color; fruity flavors in this stage; nice dry and elegant taste. Dolcetto full of personality with an expected ageing potential of 5 years more. Only 3000 bottles produced a year. 89p
2. Barbera d’Alba Scudetto 2005 vs. 2006
The Scudetto is harvested from a 70 year-old vineyard and aged for 18 months in French oak. The 2006-vintage is just recently released. Very vinous wine, full of character, with a deep taste, well-balanced wood and fine acidity. 2005 is already more approachable and at this moment more enjoyable as well, but the 2006 is a keeper. It should be interesting to see the 2006 evolving over the coming 10 years. 2005 - 90p | 2006 -91p
3. Barbera d’Alba Santo Stefano di Perno 2006 vs. Barbera d’Alba Codana 2006
These two Barbera-wines, Mascarello only produces in small quantities. The Codana is a special cru made from grapes coming from the tale of the Monprivato-vineyard (coda means tale in English). Some of the vines are more than 100 years old and in a good vintage, a 1000 botlles are produced. The wine is impressive with typical “terroir” aromas, you retrieve as well in the Barolo Monprivato itself. At this moment slightly tannic but it’s a wine that will older amazingly well over the coming 15 years. I am a lesser fan of the Santo Stefano di Perno. Still an impressive Barbera though, but less structured than the two other crus. More fruity aromas, less character. S. Stefano - 88p | Codana - 93p
4. Langhe Freisa Toetto 2004 vs. Langhe Status 2001
Quite an intriguing flight. Freisa was in the past the ancestor of Nebbiolo, but since the variety is known for an expressive bunch of tannins, it is rarely produced these days. Nonetheless, this is a wine I would love to get together with red meat, spicy food and even ethnic cuisine. From 2004 onwards, Giuseppe decided to cut in days of maceration to increase the drinkability of young Freisa. Langhe Status on its turn is an experiment made by Giuseppe from Nebbiolo, Barbera and Freisa grapes. Surprising bouquet but I prefer the single grape wines. Freisa - 88p | Status - 87p
5. Langhe Nebbiolo 2007 vs. 2008
I absolute adore this wine. Every year only 3000 bottles are made and the grapes are partly declassified Monprivato grapes. Both vintages are stunning. The aroma coming from the 2008 is simply addictive; you can’t get enough of it. Elegant, intense, mineral, somewhat volatile. Great expression of Nebbiolo. The 2007 on its turn is Barolo-worthy. More structured, deeper … I can imagine most producers would be proud if they were able to make a Barolo-wine like this and Mascarello just calls it Langhe :oD Ageing potential for a possible 10 years. 2007 - 92p | 2008 - 91p
6. Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno 2005 vs. Barolo Monprivato 2005
Again, we were a bit disappointed in the Santo Stefano di Perno but the greatness of the Monprivato 2005 we had, might be an unlucky factor to score this wine. As stated by Antonio Galloni in previous posts, Monprivato 2005 is simple gorgeous and probably one of the best wines I have tasted from 2005. No Ca’ d’Morissio Riserva was produced in that year and the selection went into the regular Monprivato. In addition the production was cut down to less than half of the normal Monprivato-production, leading to a Monprivato worthy standing in between the ‘04 and the ‘06 vintages. Complex nose with flowery and spicy scents. I expect it to get better over the years, but it’s already showing let’s say 80% of its potential. S.Stefano - 90p | Monprivato 2004 - 94p
7. Barolo Villero 2004 vs. Barolo Monprivato 2004
It’s never a gift being opposed to a Monprivato, but this Villero is more withstanding to it than the previous Santo Stefano. In the better vintages, it is a wine I like to follow since it’s a superb expression of the Villero-subzone and in a blind tasting next to a Brovia, it offers always interesting material for lively discussions. However, I expect the 2006 Villero to be even better. Barolo Monprivato 2004 is a role model. Great masculin Barolo with an almost mythical minerality, with a slight hint of petrol in the nose - something I only retrieve as well in Barolo Cascina Francia from G. Conterno. Noble expression of Nebbiolo showing 40% of its potential and a wine with some decades ahead of him. Villero - 92p | Monprivato 2004 - 97p
8. Barolo Monprivato 2006 in anteprima
I consider Monprivato 2006 already a future monument for great Barolo. This wine was not yet released at the time of the tasting for reasons it is still too young, but after decanting it for 5 hours, the wine showed a slight touch of its grandeur. Very fruity, flowery sensations in the nose. Excellent body, long and full. I am thrillled to see this wine evolve over the coming 25 years and one should taste a bottle ever 6 months of it to be sure :o) I better talk to by bank for a Monprivato-loan ;o). 97+p
9. Barolo Monprivato 2001 vs. Barolo Ris. Ca’ d’Morissio 2001
I felt just honoured to be able to compare these two flagship wines. Monprivato 2001 is a classic in the making showing the greatness of the Monprivato vineyard after some years of cellar life, but what to say about the Riserva. This special selection of Nebbiolo (Michet Clone) from the Monprivato vineyard is only produced in the upperbest vintages. When the regular Monprivato is bottled both wines are tasted and if there isn’t a significant difference, the Riserva goes into the normal Monprivato production. When you ask me, Ca’ d’Morisso only finds its equal in Monfortino. Only top red Burgundy wines can offer the same expression. Roses, red fruit and spices with in the back a touch of licorice. Expected cellar life: time will tell. Monprivato 2001 - 96p | Riserva Ca’ d’Morissio 98p
10. Barolo Monprivato 1984
A special thanks to Mauro, Giuseppe’s father. Okay, we had to drive to Piemonte to convince him to offer a bottle from his private cellar for this event, but it was worth ever single drop of it. Keeping in mind that 1984 was not seen as a promising vintage, it is even more impressive to see its evolution. As Giuseppe had recommended, the bottle was open hours before and was gently decanted. After rinsing the bottle to remove the sediment, the wine was poured again in the bottle. The effect was we had a clean wine with an hugely expressive, multi-dimensional, ethereal nose and a long resonating taste. Fantastic bottle probably at its peak. 95+p
In short, a tasting etched in our memories for life!
January 13th, 2011
Speciaal om u beter te kunnen bedienen doen wij een extra inspanning om zoveel mogelijk open te zijn!
Openingsuren Enoteca Stappato
• zondag 19 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• maandag 20 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• dinsdag 21 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• woensdag 22 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• donderdag 23 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• vrijdag 24 december : van 10h30 tot 16h00
• zondag 26 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• woensdag 29 december : van 10h30 tot 18h00
• donderdag 30 december: van 10h30 tot 18h00
• vrijdag 31 december: van 10h30 tot 16h00
Vanaf woensdag 5 januari 2011 verwelkomen wij jullie terug in Enoteca Stappato tijdens de normale dagen en uren.
Bij A Wine Affair te Gent kan u in principe tijdens de kantooruren (van maandag tot vrijdag, van 9h00 tot 18h00) blijvend terecht voor uw feestaankopen, maar voor alle zekerheid vragen wij u om even vooraf een belletje te geven op volgend telefoonnr. (09)216.40.70.
Prettige feesten en hopelijk kleuren ze dankzij A Wine Affair en Stappato ook wat Italiaans.
December 13th, 2010
Op uitnodiging van Enoteca Stappato/A Wine Affair (Diestestraat 206) kwam de beroemde wijnbouwer, Marco Ricasoli Firidolfi van het gekende Rocca di Montegrossi, een paar dagen naar Leuven. De topproducent speelde niet alleen gastheer voor een select gezelschap tijdens de wielerwedstrijd Jef Scherens maar wist de dagen voordien ook een aantal Leuvenaars te bekoren met zijn schitterende Toscaanse sangiovese-wijnen.
Lees hier snel verder … !
Continue Reading November 10th, 2010
Milaan - Luca Gardini, de beste sommelier ter wereld en tevens de sommelier van het restaurant Cracco in Milaan, heeft de 5 beste wijnen van Italië onder de 15€ gekozen…
hierbij zijn er maar liefst 3 wijnen van ons !
Lees meer en klik snel door …
Continue Reading November 5th, 2010
In de laatste editie van Robert Parker (Wine Advocate) heeft Antonio Galloni een special gewijd aan de nieuwe lichting Toscane en daarbij kwamen onze domeinen er bijzonder goed uit. 17 wijnen kregen 90 punten of meer waarvan 9 wijnen zelfs 94 tot 97.
Hieronder een overzichtje.
Lees meer en klik snel door …
Continue Reading November 3rd, 2010
Ostendaise saus, garnaalkroketten en zeebaars in zoutkorst
Toen waren ze nog met 10 en ditmaal werd de provincie West-Vlaanderen onveilig gemaakt.
Om half 6 maandagmorgen werden we verwacht aan de vismijn in Oostende, ervan uitgaande dat er verschillende soorten vis gefileerd moesten worden, maar niets was minder waard. Er stond een vissersboot klaar om uit te varen en we zouden op zee onze eigen garnalen gaan vangen en aan boord direct koken. Een kwartier later kozen we het ruime sop; de meesten na het slikken van een Touristilleke, maar ik besloot clean te varen.
Lees het volledige verhaal …
Continue Reading October 7th, 2010
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